Pelinggih

One of the first things you notice in Bali are its so many temples! Then, what appear to be little temples just over the wall everywhere else. What are these?

Every home or family compound has a family temple. These are comprised of at least one, but usually several Pelinggih. Their typically obscured appearance - just over the top of a compound wall added a bit to their mystery and allur for me. I became pretty fascinated with these - their importance, use, and how they form home life in Bali.

As a contrast, I thought about the prominence and our daily use of major home appliances. Okay, okay, - I know it's certainly a crass comparison, but for me, the “home appliance” perspective is a useful contrast to help me consider how we might elevate our own living environment and lifestyle. And the comparison seemed usufully symbolic for ongoing lifestyle contrasts running through our expierience in Bali last month. Regardless, Pelinggih always drew my attention, whereever we went. And they remain a fascination beyond our time in Bali.

So here are some examples of Balinese Pelinggih and the little bit I’ve learned about them. I hope to fill in more information over time as I learn more and perhaps am clued in more from Balinese friends.

Just a view from the road of one of the ubiquitous home temples and its pelinggih.

The pelinggih in the next section are all from the family temple of our friend Emon. They were made by his great-grandfather from stones he gathered from the sea. These beautiful white stones contrast with the many dark volcanic bases you often find. The pelinggih are usually the first part of a house to be constructed and often are made with time, materials, and expense well beyond what is invested in the house itself. They are that important.

Pelinggih look to us like spirit houses and I think it's not wrong the think of them that way. Some are meant to invite, connect, and honor the spirit of the place. That spirit of place that protects the place and home of the family. Others are to honor taksu, the energy of one's work and endeavor in life. 'Pak Ngurah once said Teresa has strong taksu as an artist. Other pelinggih invite, honor, and connect the family with their anscestors. The pelinggih are given offerings daily and figure centrally in important family events as well as smaller situations in life.

I didn't take notes when Emon was explaining what energies each of these below embody, so unfortunately I can't identify each in these terms. I will ask Emon for help in describing the role of these specific pelinggih as time permits. But, in the mean time maybe it's helpful to show them with a sense of what they are for.

Pelinggih with three chambers like the one below are the most prominant and elevated relative to the height of the others, as they are for the Hindu Trimurti, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. They also, represent male, female, and their union.

These two photos below show the group together from two perspectives. It was very moving to see Emon's family's temple, consider the energies and power in each over generations, and their importance in the living environment of the family compound.

The pelinggih below are from the family temple of Ida Pedanda Gede Manuaba who I wrote about in a previous post. He is the priest and friend of our friend I Gusti Ngurah Kertayuda who we visited in Bangli, Bali. These pelinggih predate even the arrival of the Dutch in Bali. This is evident by their use of plates from China. These are likely some of the oldest in Bali. We are grateful to Ida Pedanda for his hospitality and showing us his family tenple.