Himalayan U-Turn

If you’ve driven with me in the car, especially in the city, you might know how much joy I get out of making U-turns. They are not frivolous. They must be well motivated - it’s usually triggered by spotting a parking place. A couple in sequence is especially fun - “oh, someone just took that spot, but there’s another one over there”. And a triple happens rarely, but there is no greater mirth behind the wheel. Kellie and Eric - we had a triple one day on Western Avenue, remember? I think that was the day you resolved to never ride with me again. :)

We indulged a U-turn of sorts on our trek in Nepal. We had arranged the trek with Mountain Monarch Adventures, a trekking company that our friends Jay and Heidi had recommended. They were really terrific from the early planning all the way through our experiences with them in Nepal. What we hadn’t researched though is how difficult the trek actually is. We chose a “family” trek, thinking that it would be easy enough for even us. The first day was hard - up and up many many stairs, up the trail. Towards the end of the day, Teresa was taking 5-6 steps before resting. Our guide, Jit and porter, Dhurge were patient, caring, and supportive. They were really terrific.

At the end of the day, Teresa wondered if we could continue. My vintage mid-century knees were aching painfully as well. Jit and Dhurge are very experienced. Jit encouraged Teresa that the next day is easier and she could continue. We did and it was indeed not as relentlessly vertical is the first day. And the scenery was even more beautiful, as some clouds had cleared, revealing the white-caped peaks around us. That afternoon hike through a rhododendron forest was wonderful and what we naively thought the whole trek would be.

Once relaxed at our guesthouse for that evening we had a discussion of how to proceed. That 2nd day had indeed been easier - we weren’t hopelessly broken and stranded from that first day. We relaxed and watched the clouds evolve over Fishtail and Annapurna South during that evening’s sunset.

However, the 3rd day would be more difficult - more vertical, higher elevation, and a long day. We were wondering if we should stay two nights at our 2nd day location because its view of the mountains was so beautiful and then proceed back down to complete our four day trek. Jit had the idea that we proceed down the next day but just a half day and stay overnight where we had lunched the previous day. Then proceed the following day to our first night’s guesthouse and then down the rest of the way on the following day.

One of the guesthouses and lunch spot along the way

The rooms are simple but comfortable

The villages up here aren't served by roads. Everything is brought in by donkeys.

So we stayed until midmorning to enjoy the sunrise and view of the mountains, and then followed the new plan. A U-turn of sorts, but pace was relayed, the weather was clear and bright, the views amazing.

Dhurge Tamang, our porter taking a rest

We stopped to watch monkeys in the trees, take in the rhododendron and a new view of the peaks at every turn. We were sore, to be sure, but this trek was more like the experience we had imagined. And Teresa and I both agreed that if we had indeed properly researched trekking, we probably wouldn’t have done it. And we’re real glad we did. One of Teresa’s takeaways is that “if a Nepal trek is on your bucket list, do it at 27 instead of 67”. Oh, and by the way - a family trek? We did see families with little kids bopping up and down the mountain. :)

Going down seemed a lot easier.,

Almost there...

Bill and JitBahadr Tamarg, our terrific guide

Dhurge, Jit, Teresa, and Bill

… made it.